Menswear Spring 2027: Milan’s Finest Tailoring, Effortless Elegance Unveiled

Brioni further elevated its bespoke tailoring with Maestria, unveiled at Milan’s stately Palazzo del Senato and offering personalization across all categories, from shirts and knitwear to footwear and small leather goods.

With mannequins dotting the courtyard, the Italian brand made a statement. Its design team offered suits that reflected Brioni’ s Roman roots, seen for example in the color palette hinging on Rosso Roma and Trevi blue.

With their deconstructed silhouettes, the tailored looks were featherlight and had a nonchalant attitude, despite the impeccable execution. The unlined, double-breasted Soffio blazer was crafted from slightly water-repellent light nubuck and embellished with gold buttons. Worn over a knit polo shirt, the look telegraphed even more ease. You May Also Like Related Articles Shoe Industry News Church's Goes Inside 'The Residence' for Spring 2027 Shoe Offering, Featuring Soft Loafers for a 'Relaxed Summer' Mens Designer Luxury Caruso Marks New Chapter

The unlined Sahariana jacket in wool-and-linen herringbone was worn over a striped shirt, while the Travel Jacket in lightweight wool hopsack with alligator-print nubuck details reflected Brioni ’s sophisticated style.

The eveningwear on the upper floor was a testament to the excellence of Brioni’s tailors, ranging from the jacket with gold yarns to intricately embroidered sequins or tiny beads forming a delicate graphic pattern.

Canali unveiled the first collection under the lead of creative director Alessio Lillocci.

Dubbed “The Spice Route,” it reflected a journey beginning in the Indonesian Moluccas, or Maluku, islands and moving on to India, followed by touching the western coasts of Africa, then Greece and the Sicilian island of Alicudi, Lillocci explained. Leveraging years of experience developed at Brunello Cucinelli and Prada, the designer used a beautiful palette of colors, the hues reflecting the spices of each location, from nutmeg and cardamom to ginger, cinnamon and vanilla, and those of the Mediterranean Sea.

The nonchalant mood was reflected in Canali ‘s perfectly tailored suits that looked effortless and were made less formal by pairing them with knit polos or suede jackets.

Making a comeback on the Milan men’s calendar after a decade’s absence and under new ownership, Caruso made a big impression with its breezy and slyly nonchalant tailoring done up in an arresting array of unusual colors.

Creative director Max Kibardin drew inspiration from Irving Penn photographs of flowers and food, managing to give a linen herringbone jacket the texture of frozen blueberries. Uncanny too were the dusty pinks, approximating Penn’s beloved, nearly transparent poppies.

Kibardin’s crisp cutting and fine, fluid fabrics also made a big impression. Caruso ’s chief executive officer Marco Angeloni aims to more than double the Caruso brand in the next three years.

“We worked a lot on the mix of colors, never excessive, as well as on the volumes, more relaxed and comfortable, with lighter fabrics,” said Kiton CEO Antonio De Matteis, highlighting also the importance of transparency, meaning giving visibility to the work behind the garments and how they are created. He pointed out that, for this reason, the set this season remained the cinema theater seen in January at Kiton’s headquarters, with the short film “La Verità del Fare [The Truth of Making]” that shows “how our garments are made, what’s behind our fashion and the hands at work. I am very proud of how transparent we are,” De Matteis said about Kiton’s pipeline.

For spring, Kiton’s suits showed lengthened silhouettes and softened proportions. Linen ran through the entire collection, from suits to jackets, and also combined with cashmere.

Knitwear was present in polo shirts, gradually replacing the T-shirt. Together with white and denim shirts, the brand this season rolled out traditional patterns, from thin stripes and pinstripes to checks.

The breadth of accessories increases season after season, with summer loafers and sneakers crafted from fine leathers, such as deerskin, and leather and canvas bags.

Corneliani updated its sartorial proposition via functional details befitting a very dapper explorer.

Hosting its usual presentation at its headquarters, located a stone’s throw from San Babila square, the brand installed video walls that broadcast a fictitious runway show created with the help of AI. Avatar models were seen walking down an endless path traversing different landscapes, from art-filled rooms to an idyllic forest.

Besides the signature double-breasted suits, offered for spring with unlined blazers crafted from wool and mohair blends — at times paired with offbeat crinkly and iridescent cupro shirts — stood suit separates and cotton and silk outerwear pieces, such as parkas and blousons replacing the traditional jacket. The latter was also ditched in favor of a handsome knitted polo shirt with a fuzzy, bearskin effect, paired with woolen pants.

Furthering its novelty take on sartorial codes, the brand came up with an inventive way to update the season’s favorite seersucker, in an ivory suit crafted from ripple wool, which is dyed at high temperatures to achieve a puckered texture.

Pal Zileri is loosening its tie: In lieu of its usual showroom presentation, the brand invited press and clients to a rooftop, golden-hour aperitivo, installing its spring 2027 collection on mannequins ringing the 16th-floor patio, which offered panoramic views of Milan.

Carlo Anceschi, who came on as CEO last February, said he chose the laid-back format to underline Pal Zileri’s new wardrobe and its multioccasion approach. Hence shirt jackets and safari jackets in linen and leather came to the fore, as did denim Bermudas, linen polos and lots of lifestyle knits amid its more formal, full-canvas tailoring — styled with a loosened tie.

The storied Italian menswear brand, controlled by Qatari fund Mayhoola, has ambitions to further grow its direct-to-consumer business and is plotting freestanding Pal Zileri stores in key fashion capitals over the next five years, such as London, Paris, Madrid and New York.

In its ongoing efforts to refine and finetune its total look proposition to cater to modern men’s needs, Lardini unveiled a concise lineup suitable for layering and mixing and matching.

Drawing its palette from natural stones — many of which were on display as part of a cool geology lab-like installation conceived by cutting-edge design firm Parasite 2.0 — the relaxed suiting came with double-breasted blazers and generous lapels or suede jackets with stand-up collars that could double-up as off-duty outerwear. Ditto for bomber jackets done in frescolana, to be layered atop Prince of Wales blazers and jeans on those early spring days.

A renewed focus on eveningwear yielded swaggering tuxedos, including one featuring a white, shawl-lapeled blazer and an all-black iteration worn with a matching shirt for the edgier partygoers. The brand introduced its first range of leather goods, from weekender bags to small accessories, all made in Japan, a traditionally important country for Lardini’s business.

“There are no frills, no excesses. It’s a very pragamatic collection, comfortable and wearable,” said creative director Luigi Lardini.

As it prepares to mark its 20th anniversary in 2027, Eleventy ditched its usual showroom presentation for the courtyard of the Four Seasons Hotel, where a string quartet delighted guests with classical music.

Taking cues from Venice’s artistic heritage, the brand’s creative director and CEO Marco Baldassari juxtaposed the signature subdued palette of neutrals and dusty pastels with unexpected pops of rich nuances, including mustard yellow and cherry red for leisure suits with overshirts in lieu of blazers and suede trucker jackets paired with neutral underpinnings.

Formalwear embraced a relaxed attitude, with most of the blazers coming collarless, or with mandarin collars and kimono-inspired, paired with looser-fit trousers nodding to pajamas.

The spring collection also included two celebratory capsules for the brand’s milestone next year. Named “The Indigo Blue” and “Active Moments,” they were dedicated to denim and leisurely activewear, respectively, two of the hallmarks of the Eleventy style. The former capsule reinterpreted dressy denim and casual linen pieces, including blazers and field jackets, while the latter comprised T-shirts, sweatpants and shorts, as well as an ultralight sneaker.

Cesare Attolini was in an escapist mood for spring, taking cues from safari explorations and the European chic riviera destinations to provide the globe-trotting wealthy pack a wardrobe befitting different latitudes.

One could envision Ernest Hemingway heading to the Florida Keys in pure-silk field jackets or linen and cotton double-breasted suits in a palette of rich neutrals — sand, tobacco and cigar brown. Prince of Wales, herringbone and pinstriped blazers and suits, rendered in Irish linen or wool and silk blends, nodded to founder Vincenzo Attolini, who infused British tailoring with an effortless, laid-back Neapolitan sensibility in the 1930s.

As the summer season heats up, the dapper look of Capri and Saint Tropez vacationers came to the fore with dusty pink, lilac and baby blue ensembles, including a chic overshirt in a houndstooth motif or textured skipper polo shirts and beach club-ready linen shirts.

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